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Wild Northern Spain

Asturias · Cantabria · Basque Country. Cantabrian cliffs, cider houses, canyons and pintxos.

7-10 days~1400 kmMay–Sept€60-80/day

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01 Long drive Sos del Rey Católico Leaving Barcelona — medieval stop near Zaragoza · ~4–5 h of driving +
1 Departure. Leave Barcelona on the AP-2 towards Zaragoza. It's about 4–5 hours non-stop to Sos del Rey Católico. Tip: leave early to catch sunset in the village.
2 Arrive and take a stroll. Stroll the cobbled streets of the old town at sunset. The whole village is a listed heritage site. Don't miss: the Church of San Esteban and the Palace of the Sada (birthplace of Ferdinand the Catholic).
3 Night. Dinner in the village (Aragonese food) and sleep. There's a small car park by the town walls.
SleepCar park by the medieval wall (free). For campervans: a large unrestricted area at the entrance to town.
LunchLa Cocina del Principal restaurant — traditional Aragonese food. Try the ternasco lamb and the migas.
TipThe village is almost empty on weekdays. On August weekends it can be busier.
02 Driving and cliffs Cabo Vidio — The northernmost point Asturian cliffs · Easy driving with stops · ~5–6 h from Sos to Cabo Vidio +

Cabo Vidio is the northernmost point of this trip: a rugged peninsula of cliffs and rocks with spectacular views. The idea is to get as far north as possible so the return leg heads homewards (Barcelona in our case), making the trip more enjoyable.

1 1. Drive all morning at an easy pace to Cabo Vidio. From Sos del Rey Católico it's about 5-6 hours non-stop; we recommend breaks wherever catches your eye.
2 2. Stop for the night at Cabo Vidio: the whole cliff is surrounded by small meadows where you can pitch a tent. There's also a small car park overlooking the cliff.
SleepMeadows on the cape (for tents) or the viewpoint car park (campervan/car). Free. Car park on Google Maps →
TipIt's the longest leg of the trip. Spread out breaks to eat and stretch your legs.
03 Villages and towns Cliffs, villages and Asturian towns Peña Doria beach → Cudillero → Gijón → Oviedo → Pola de Siero +

On day 3 you wake up looking at Peña Doria beach, then head for the Asturian villages and towns.

1 1. Take a swim at Peña Doria beach
2 2. Drive to the village of Cudillero
3 3. Lunch in Gijón and spend the afternoon
4 4. Visit Oviedo and have dinner at Sushi Toro
5 5. Sleep in Pola de Siero, I recommend a small car park at the top of the village.
SleepPola de Siero — parking at the top of the village. Car park on Google Maps →
DinnerSushi Toro (Oviedo).
TipCudillero is very narrow; in a campervan leave it at the top and walk down.
04 Activity — kayak Kayaking down the Sella Pola de Siero → Cangas Aventura → Ribadesella → Cangas de Onís → Monte Muru +

On day 4 we wake up in Pola de Siero and head to the Sella river for one of the best activities on this route: kayaking down the Sella.

1 1. Head to Cangas Aventura for the Sella descent. I recommend stopping along the riverbanks to drink cider.
2 2. Grab some food and head for the coastal town of Ribadesella.
3 3. After strolling around Ribadesella we can drive half an hour to the small inland village of Cangas de Onís and have dinner at one of the best restaurants in Asturias, Restaurante Sidrería el Polesu.
4 4. For a comfortable night I recommend heading to a small meadow on top of Monte Muru.
ActivitySella river descent with Cangas Aventura (Arriondas). Book ahead in summer.
DinnerSidrería El Polesu (Cangas de Onís). Booking recommended.
SleepMonte Muru — a meadow up top with views of the Picos. Meadow on Google Maps →
05 Beaches and nature Northern beaches + Cabrales valley Monte Muru → Asturian beaches → Inland Cabrales → Pools +

On day 5 we wake up slowly on top of Monte Muru and spend the morning at the northern beaches. In the afternoon we head inland to Cabrales to be closer to the mountains.

1 Wild beaches of the east. Spend the morning at one of the gems of the eastern Asturian coast: Gulpiyuri (the famous inland beach), Torimbia (wild and shell-shaped) or San Antolín. If there's a big swell, it's worth visiting the Bufones de Pría, which shoot pressurised water up through cracks in the cliff.
2 Cabrales + lunch. Turn inland towards Cabrales to get closer to the mountains. Eat around there: a good time for a cachopo or a fabada.
3 A swim in the pools. A swim in the pools at the mill dam in Poo de Cabrales. Clear, cold water surrounded by green.
4 Sleep easy. Sleep around Cabrales / Arenas de Cabrales, with the Picos de Europa behind you and a starry sky.
Recommended beachesGulpiyuri (a unique inland beach), Torimbia (wild) and San Antolín. The Pría blowholes if there's a big swell.
PoolsMill dam in Poo de Cabrales. Bring water shoes; cold even in August.
LunchCachopo, fabada or roast kid around Cabrales.
SleepCabrales / Arenas de Cabrales area, quiet with the Picos behind.
06 Villages and flavours Cabrales cheese and into Cantabria El Cabriteru → Comillas → Bolao viewpoint → San Vicente de la Barquera +

We wake up in Cabrales, we tried real Cabrales cheese and crossed into Cantabria to ride its coast to San Vicente de la Barquera.

1 Try real Cabrales cheese at the artisan cheese dairy El Cabriteru.
2 Cross into Cantabria, stopping at beaches along the way.
3 Comillas — modernist town (Gaudí's El Capricho).
4 Bolao viewpoint — the waterfall that drops from the cliff into the sea.
5 San Vicente de la Barquera — fishing town with its bridge and castle.
6 Sleep in San Vicente de la Barquera, at Playa de Merón (campervan parking).
7 Optional. See the Cabezón de la Sal sequoia forest if there's time.
El CabriteruBlue cheese from raw sheep's and goat's milk, aged in caves. Buy a piece for the trip.
SleepSan Vicente de la Barquera — campervan parking by Playa de Merón. See on Google Maps →
OptionalCabezón de la Sal sequoia forest — small and quirky, good for stretching your legs.
07 Activity — canyoning Canyoning in Cantabria and Gaztelugatxe Vega de Pas → San Juan de Gaztelugatxe → Barrika beach +

A morning of canyoning in the Pas valleys and, in the afternoon, we cross into the Basque Country to see San Juan de Gaztelugatxe at an easy pace.

1 Canyoning in Vega de Pas. Descend one of the canyons in the Pas valleys: abseils, natural slides and jumps into pools. Half a day of adrenaline among green mountains.
2 Lunch and on to the Basque Country. Grab something to eat nearby and drive to the Bizkaia coast (~1h30).
3 San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (~7 pm). Climb up to the hermitage via the walkway and the 241 steps cut into the rock. At the top, tradition says to ring the bell three times and make a wish. Going late in the afternoon avoids the hottest hours and the crowds.
4 Sleep. Sleep wherever you can around Barrika / the Bizkaia coast.
CanyoningIn Vega de Pas, with a guiding company (gear and wetsuit included). There's a beginner level. Book ahead.
GaztelugatxeIn high season access usually requires a free ticket booked online with a date and time. Check before you go. It's 241 steps down and up: wear comfy shoes.
SleepBizkaia coast, around Barrika. Find a spot with Park4Night.

Fun fact: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe was "Dragonstone" in Game of Thrones. The staircase winding up to the hermitage is the most famous image of the Basque coast.

08 Beaches and city Surfing in Zarautz and San Sebastián Zarautz → Donostia / San Sebastián → Home +

Last big day: hermitage, surf, pintxos and home with the whole north still on your skin.

1 San Telmo hermitage (Zarautz). Before surfing, walk up to the San Telmo hermitage. It sits on top of Mount Talai-Mendi with amazing views over Zarautz bay and the Cantabrian Sea. About 20 minutes on foot from town, well worth it in the morning light.
2 Surf in Zarautz. A long beach that's ideal for beginners. Several schools and board + wetsuit hire by the hour.
3 Pintxos in San Sebastián. Head to Donostia (30 min). The Old Town is the heart of it: La Cuchara de San Telmo is a must, famous for its beef cheek and foie. Get there early, it fills up.
4 Stroll around San Sebastián. La Concha beach, Mount Urgull or simply getting lost in the Old Town.
5 Home again. San Sebastián → Barcelona, ~570 km / 5–6 h. If it gets late, there's a rest area with good parking spots in Vitoria-Gasteiz halfway, perfect for stopping to sleep and reaching Barcelona fresh in the morning.
SurfZarautz — long beach ideal for beginners. Several schools and board + wetsuit hire by the hour.
PintxosLa Cuchara de San Telmo (Old Town). Famous for its beef cheek and foie. Get there early, it fills up.
HomeSan Sebastián → Barcelona, ~570 km / ~5–6 h.

Donostia is best enjoyed slowly: one pintxo and one txikito at each bar, then on to the next. Don't stay in the first one — the fun is hopping around the Old Town.

Budget per person

Estimate for 7–10 days by campervan or car. Prices rise in July–August (+20–30%). Travelling as 2–4 people splits the fixed costs.

Accommodation
Free car parks and meadows almost the whole trip
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Food
Cider houses, cachopo, pintxos — varies by day
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Activities
Kayaking, canyoning, surfing
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Fuel
~1400 km route
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Questions about the route? Write to me →

Wild beach on the Cantabrian coastCliff above the Bay of BiscayBeach below Cantabrian cliffs

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